I must admit, I had some expectations going to Brasserie de Paris. The most important was to have a good dinner as it was my birthday on the day we went. Although not a proponent of modern architecture, as I find it cold and lifeless, Jooste House did have a certain charm in the room where we ate. The classically-laid table, white linen, candle and tasteful but minimal decoration in the room did the trick. I could also see the garden outside which balanced the concrete and brick work inside.

We went during Restaurant Week. While my companions chatted about Covid I tried the bread. Delicious and home-made as it should be. I'm partial to good bread and was looking forward to the French onion soup as an entrée. Chef Didier Philipot surprised us with an amuse-bouche (a combination of pea purée, chicken stock and truffle oil) which tantalised the taste buds just in the right way.

The onion soup was the best I've had. Rich bouillon with deep golden-brown onions that was beginning to caramelise. Topped with a baguette and Emmentaler cheese. I wanted another. Maybe I should have had two starter courses. My three companions had the selection of charcuterie with homemade French pâté and terrines served with pickles and toasted bread. It looked appetising.

My choice for mains was the Coq au Vin. My understanding is that an old cock, or these days maybe an old hen, is used for this rustic dish which necessitates marinating in red wine overnight for the meat to soften, but with the meat cooked and still firm when brought to the table. Unfortunately, this was not the case. (Seems the 'onion soup' bouillon was also used in this dish as the texture and consistency and taste were similar). The chicken thighs were small and so soft that it disintegrated on cutting, so much so that I had to pick little bones out of my mouth with my hands after each forkful, although I tried to eat gently in the dim light (I was furthest from the candle). My companions had the ham hock with broad beans, which in retrospect, I should have had as it would have provided a foil to the richness of the onion soup. Good advice from the food waiter would not have been amiss in this respect but he just took orders.

I opted for the Crêpes Suzette for dessert, a firm favourite since the time the head chef flambéd it next to me at the Grand Roche hotel in Paarl. Brasserie's crêpes came to the table ready-made, seemingly not flambéd but I enjoyed the slice of citrus fruit flavoured with liqueur, a nice addition. The crépes were topped with caramelised sugar which run to half of the quite big plate it was served in, and it was too rich and overpowering. I didn't finish dessert but it was well-made and satisfied my sweet tooth.

I understand the limitations of the menu to keep to the price range for Restaurant week. It may account for the same bouillon used for the onion soup and chicken but the biggest consequence of this was that the glasses of wine on offer didn't match the complexity of the food. A wooded Chardonnay or an unwooded, but with extensive lees contact, would've been ideal (or Shiraz).

Overall, I enjoyed the experience and the food at Brasserie de Paris and would love to go back for a "normal" lunch or dinner, ordering from the a la carte menu. The quality of the food is excellent and the preparation well executed with complex flavours. The 'little touches' were also there as in the macaroons that chef Didier brought us just before we left, as we declined coffee. I rate Brasserie 80 points out of a 100 which is four stars out of five.